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While the first three road blocks are manned by young Colombian army soldiers who have learned to wield a rifle before they have needed to wield a razor, the fourth has a markedly different air: the guard checking papers is a young woman with a Che badge in her combat cap and a bangle on her wrist. "There used to be 12 or 13 killings a week here," says Omar Moreno, a teacher having a drink in a bar in the main square where the odd stray goat or horse interrupt the passage of the stream of young people on motorbikes and scooters. Everyone in Colombia would like to live like this." Not quite everyone.

Miguel Angel Serna is the parish priest whose modernist church was built by Italian missionaries in the 50s.

The successful Liberal party candidate in the last pre-Farclandia election, he has the title but not the clout.

Although part of the agreement between government and Farc was that the mayor would continue to hold his authority, his 60 grey-uniformed civilian police have a slightly Boy Scoutish air to them, wandering round the town armed only with sticks that look like tentpoles snapped in half, while the young men and women of Farc shoulder their AK-47s and pack a couple of grenades and a brightly beaded machete scabbard. A moustached, middle-aged man in a checked shirt, Garcia has a slightly world-weary air to him.

This green territory in the south of Colombia towards the Amazon basin was ceded to the guerrillas by the Colombian president Andres Pastrana last year as part of an imaginative if desperate bid to broker a peace treaty in a war that has cost more than 36,000 lives so far and has disrupted the country with kidnappings and mayhem.

His move led to the resignation of his defence minister and many senior generals.

It has also computerised records of people's bank accounts and values so that those with funds can be more easily identified and kidnapped.

It is this failure of the government to break the links between the army and the paramilitaries that is giving the European governments pause.

A bookshelf at the entrance to his office offers for sale a volume entitled Fifty-five Responses to Protestants, Communists, Masons and Spiritualists and sub-titled with an exhortation to Catholics, defend your religion. "Arms are a sign of weakness," he says, "because it means that you don't have the authority without them." Dressed in jeans and polo shirt, Serna says that while there is certainly "less barbarism" in Farclandia than elsewhere in the country, "there is more to peace than just the absence of violence.

There has to be freedom of expression, freedom to disagree." The town's mayor, Omar Garcia, agrees.

[Verse 1] Kathy met a girlfriend at a place around Grant Swore if she got out alive she'd, not go back again Fellas didn't know her and they scared her half to death Hand prints on her jeans, she would have just got up and left That's when she saw Benny standing, over by the bar Sat back down and waited 'til he came over to talk Later on that night, as she was walking out the door Benny started up his bike and the boys came out for more [Verse 2] They picked her up and put her on the back of Benny's bike Now Kathy's been with Benny Bauer ever since that night She's tried to leave him many times, can't quite get away Seen more jails and courts and laywers than she'd like to say That Benny's always been a fighter, that'll never change Kathy takes him home and heals him up, it's all the same He made it from the club room all the way out to the street They beat him with the barstools but he made it on his feet [Chorus] Kathy's running to her boy, picks him up and takes him home And Benny's crying "Kathy please, I'm sorry don't you know?

" I'm sorry don't you know, I'm sorry don't you know?

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